The United States in
War and Peace

A Regular Column by Shelby L. Stanton 

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April II 2009
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Designers Create Uniform for U.S. Women War Workers
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The idea of a distinctive uniform for women mobilized for wartime service to the United States during World War II was not limited to members of the armed forces, traditional service organizations or privately organized civilian defense groups.  The entrance of so many female employees within the industrial labor force inspired some corporations to adopt their own uniform clothing as a productive way to insure practical working apparel and elevate morale.  Such apparel was standardized to be both functional and appealing, and often produced in coordinated conformity with employee desires.

My column features a War Department information bulletin of World War II that describes an example of this uniformed clothing innovation for the American homefront.  The official press release promotes a wartime industry outfit produced by an aircraft components manufacturer. The photographs show American women engaged in typical jobs at the assembly plant while attired in approved work clothing designed and provided at employer expense.  The actual text and pictures are published here as they appeared in the news bulletin for the first time since the war.

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War Department News Release S-821
1942

A new problem for U. S. fashion experts has gradually emerged as more girls and women are taking jobs at machines and benches in American war production plants.  To date nearly three million women have left their homes or other jobs to work in the war industries, and up to now little thought has been given to the clothes they wear except that they not make the wearer conspicuous and conform to plant safety standards.  Many women have adopted serviceable coveralls such as those worn by automobile mechanics, while others, whose work does not involve machines, have worn plain washable dresses.
 

Workers Contributed Ideas

As the number of its women workers increased, the Sperry Gyroscope Company in New York, makers of plane gyroscopes and bombsights, decided something should be done not only to standardize the working clothes, but to provide as attractive garment as the best fashion designers could devise.  A "streamlined coverall” was decided upon, and the women workers were asked their ideas on various features.  Thirty-four specific requirements were culled from suggestions submitted.  These were given to Vera Maxwell, a leading designer, who produced six models, all in specified blue "lighter and with more bloom than navy blue."

Other specifications embodied in the model chosen, and asked for by women workers, included trousers "just long enough to cover and still show our ankles;" "a snug belt to accentuate slimness;" a collar shortened at the back to keep out of the way of hair or hat; no back yoke, to avoid the appearance of being "stoop-shouldered;" short "mannish" sleeves to allow ease both for work and in ironing.

Other requests were elimination of pockets in the trousers "because they make us look larger in the hips;" that front and back creases in the trousers be stitched in; and that the garment be one-piece with the front section designed in one piece, "darted to keep all extra material from making us appear larger through the “midriff."

A cotton material was chosen, because, as the women said, "we have to wash these outfits ourselves on occasion and we may be in a hurry.  A too-hot iron can do less damage to cotton than to any other fabrics."  Laundering is the girls’ responsibility although the uniform is provided by the company, according to Mrs. Lois B. Hunter, Sperry executive in charge of the project.
 

Chic Hat Completes Costume

Aside from the safety value of the uniforms, the Sperry Company wants to create an enthusiasm in its workers for wearing them to and from work, "with the exception of date nights."  Factory space for changing clothing is precious these days.

To go with the coverall, a leading designer created a hat of the same material which not only protects the hair from contact with moving machinery, but adds much to the costume.  The Sperry Company workers are proud of their new uniform, and it is probable that other big war production plants will adopt the idea.  The company also is pleased.  "We mean to make our Sperry production girl as outstanding as the WAACS (Women's Army Auxiliary Corps), or the WAVES (Women's Auxiliary Voluntary Emergency Service) of the Navy," declared Mrs. Hunter.
 

Captions
 
 


Click image to enlarge 
........ A pretty girl employee of Sperry Gyroscope Company wears the trim new coverall work uniform and chic hat. The back of the hat has a snood effect to protect the hair from moving machinery. 

(note distinctive company insignia device, Collection Shelby Stanton)


 
Another view of the new Sperry coverall for women workers. The color is blue, “lighter and with more bloom than navy;” the material is washable cotton. It has features the girls requested: narrow collar, high-set change pockets, trim silhouette, red and blue belt, red stripe on trousers. 

(Collection Shelby Stanton)

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Click image to enlarge 

 

Click image to enlarge 
........ This variation of the Sperry coverall shows long sleeves which protect arms of riveters and welders, and ankle trouser-straps.

(Collection Shelby Stanton)

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Copyright © 2009 by Shelby L. Stanton  - All rights reserved

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