The WPB regulation governing clothing restrictions was issued as Limitation Order L-85, which subjected the women’s apparel industry to strict standards in order to conserve material, machinery and manpower.  This was a long-term emergency war measure that imposed overall wartime material conservation on the American clothing industry and public consumer. The original mandates (officially termed schedules, such as Schedule 111 of Order L-85) were updated continuously by subsequent schedule revisions throughout the conflict. 

Beginning with the outbreak of the European conflict in September 1939, clothing designers of the Fashion Originators Guild of America had been forced to recognize the pending impact of wartime conditions.  The American clothing industry slowly but steadily adapted to the anticipated reality of increased cloth and material shortages, and this process eased national reception to many restrictive design and manufacturing principles. 

When the United States formally entered hostilities over two years later, in December 1941, voluntary restrictions affecting design and marketing of apparel were already partially in place. In fact, the War Production Board optimistically hoped that the average garment purchaser would notice no sudden change from clothing already available on the market.  On June 25, 1942, WPB Limitation Order L-85 (officially dated April 9, 1942) was ushered into existence by the National Association of Dress Manufacturers with a joint fashion exhibit and war bond drive staged in the Rockefeller Plaza's Rainbow Room.  The regulation became effective on August 17, 1942.
 

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WPB order L-85 tried to keep prewar fashion in place, exemplified by this two-piece suit, and encouraged switching accessories in lieu of new fashionable creations. Alternatives for this black two-piece outfit depended on a fringed wool muff, twisted ribbon cravat and shako hat of black skunk (left), or a knitted white wool scarf, white hatter's plush hat, and white purse instead (right).  (Collection Shelby Stanton)

Another example of “fixing the silhouette” by freezing prewar fashion is shown by a two-piece black suit. One features soft collar of faille silk and small hat with soaring quill (left).  The same suit is accented more formally by adding an ostrich collar, matching hat, and silk bag studded with black sequins (right). In both cases, accessory variability in prewar fashion replaces the need for new fashion design during wartime.  (Collection Shelby Stanton)

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Despite early governmental optimism, the national effect of Limitation Order L-85 was both immediate and profound. The American woman quickly learned that almost any type of outer clothing made for feminine wear, regardless of who made it, was subject to regulatory provisions.  The order forced drastic changes upon both industrial apparel production and home garment assembly alike.  The detail of each schedule was typically bewildering in bureaucratic thoroughness. For instance, various amendments deemed exactly what type belt loops might be added to defined categories of fitted coats and slacks, shorts and ski pants. The average American household considered the manifold schedules overly fussy and even silly in governing such minute details.

There was notable public reluctance to follow what was being officially labeled the U.S. conservation program.  Nevertheless, homemakers and dress designers alike trusted government assurances that strict L-85 conformity could actually result in increased cotton, rayon and wool fabric utilization for civilian attire. Another reason for adhering to these involuntary regulations was fear of government standardization of styles for the war’s duration, a dismal prospect that promised only monotonous and unattractive clothing.  To assist public receptivity, the government also acted to prevent traditional social inconveniences. Despite the avowed purpose to save material for military purposes regardless of civilian factors, several feminine allowances remained unaffected by L-85.  For example, wedding dresses and maternity outfits were exempted from regulation.
 

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Wedding dresses and maternity outfits were specifically excluded from L-85 restrictions. Here Army Air Forces Captain Leonard Marks, a decorated B-17 bomber pilot and veteran of the Pacific theater, marries Fanny Papadelis during a typical wartime ceremony in New York City on November 14, 1943.  (Collection Shelby Stanton)

The advent of WPB order L-85 created a renewed market for pattern catalogs and homemade fabric solutions to meet clothing restrictions on yardage while still creating attractive dress.  Talented homemakers, like this woman working at her Singer sewing machine, had to adhere exactly to wartime regulatory requirements for cloth items ranging from dresses to drapery.  (Collection Shelby Stanton)

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The War Production Board became the single government agency most familiar to every American woman, and the kindest nickname bestowed upon L-85 was, “Old Snip Snap, the Government Shears”.  This relatively affectionate term was often surpassed by ruder commentary from a critical public unaccustomed to government interference in the domestic economy.

Note: The next few columns will be devoted to a detailed survey of Limitation Order L-85 and wartime feminine dress, along with illustrative examples. My information for this topic is based on personal research in U.S. National Archives Record Group 179.2 and supplemented by contemporary newspaper archives.