Women's Reserve of the
Coast Guard
(SPARS)
... III. Uniforms
.
-. Insignia
-. Medals and Ribbons
-. Service and Dress Uniform
-. Work Attire
-. Miscellaneous
-. Dress Regulations
 
.
Dress Regulations
..
Required Items of Uniform
.
The government allowed officers $250 and the enlisted personnel $200 for the purchase of the uniform. At least, a complete set of standard uniforms had to be obtained out of these sums. The items could be purchased at naval supply stores, they could be tailor-made or bought from civilian shops if the purchased articles were according to regulations.
.

In addition to the basic articles, there were several optional items (for example, the winter coat and the white uniform for enlisted personnel) which could be purchased at own expense.
 

The following chart shows which items were authorized in October 1943.

...
.
Item Officer  Chief Petty Officers (CPO) Enlisted Personnel
Service Jacket, Navy Blue yes 2 2
Service Skirt, Navy Blue yes 2 2
Service Jacket, White yes optional optional
Service Skirt, White yes optional optional
Working Uniform yes 2 2
Raincoat-Overcoat yes 1 1
Raincoat, lightweight and havelock optional optional optional
Overcoat optional optional optional
Shirts, Navy Blue not worn optional 3
Shirts, Reserve Blue yes 3 2 (discontinued in October 1943)
Shirts, White Short or Long-sleeved yes 2 2 (since October 1943)
Ties, Black yes 2 2
Ties, Reserve Blue not worn optional 2
Hat (Officer) yes 1 not worn
Hat Covers, Officer, Navy Blue yes 1 not worn
Hat Covers, Officer, White yes 2 not worn
Hat Covers, Officer, Gray yes 2 not worn
Hat Device (Officer) yes not worn not worn
Hat Device, CPO not worn 1 not worn
Hat, Enlisted, Navy Blue not worn not worn 1
Hat Cover, Enlisted, White not worn not worn 2
Hat Cover, Enlisted, Gray not worn not worn 2
Havelock (Officer's) yes 1 not worn
Havelock (Enlisted) not worn not worn 1
Hose, Beige yes 4 pairs 4 pairs
Shoes, Black yes 2 pairs 2 pairs
Dress Shoes, White yes optional optional
Sneakers - 1 pair 1 pair
Gloves, Black yes 1 pair 1 pair
Gloves, White yes 2 pairs 2 pairs
Handbag - black yes 1 1
Handbag, white (or handbag cover, white) yes optional optional
Muffler optional optional optional
Aviation Coverall and Cap when required when required when required
Working Smock when required when required when required
Slacks when required when required when required


...
.
.
Uniform by Season and Occasion
.

The uniform varied with the season. Every Coast Guard district set his own calendar for winter, spring and fall, and summer wear. Most northern districts considered that summer begins around May 15 or June 1; fall about October 1; winter, November 15; and spring about March 15. Some southern districts did not order the winter uniforms at all, while on the west coast the summer whites were not made compulsory. 
.
Chart showing in general the uniform by season and occasion 
.
Occasion Suit Blouse Tie Purse Gloves Hat  Shoes Stockings
Work
Winter
N-Blue +O. White
O. R-Blue
E. N-Blue
Black
Black
R-Blue
Black Black N-Blue Black Oxfords
or pumps
Rayon 
or lisle
Spring and Fall N-Blue Same Same Black White White Black Oxfords
or pumps
Rayon, lisle 
or silk
Summer Working
Uniform
- Black Black Optional Gray Black Oxfords
or pumps
Silk or rayon
Dress
Winter
N-Blue White
E. R-Blue
Black
Black
Black White N-Blue Black pumps Silk or rayon
Spring and Fall N-Blue Same Same Black White White Black Pumps Silk or rayon
Summer White White Black White
(no strap)
White White White Pumps Silk or rayon
Train or Travel
Winter
N-Blue +O. White
O. R-Blue
E. N-Blue
Black
Black
R-Blue
Black Black N-Blue Black Oxfords
or pumps
Lisle or rayon
Spring and Fall N-Blue Same Same Black White White Same Same
Summer N-Blue or
Working
Uniform
White Black
Black
Black
Black
White
Optional
White
Gray
Black Oxfords
or pumps
Silk or rayon
Reporting for Duty
Winter
N-Blue +O. White
O. R-Blue
E. N-Blue
Black
Black
R-Blue
Black Black N-Blue Black Oxfords
or pumps
Lisle or rayon
Spring and Fall N-Blue Same Same Black White White Black Oxfords
or pumps
Lisle, rayon
or silk
Summer Working
Uniform
- Black Black Optional Gray Black Oxfords
or pumps
Silk or rayon
Weddings
Winter
N-Blue White Black Black White N-Blue Black pumps Silk or rayon
Spring and Fall N-Blue Same Same Black White White Black pumps Silk or rayon
Summer White White Black White
(no strap)
White White White Pumps Silk or rayon
+O = Officers only; E = Enlisted only; N-Blue = Navy Blue; R-Blue = Reserve-Blue
.
Some Do's and Don'ts

Service hat

The hat for enlisted personnel was worn with the brim rolled up in back and turned down in front. It should not be worn too far back on the head and it could not be worn rolled all around. 
The hat for officers and enlisted personnel was worn straight and not tipped rakishly to one side. Hair had to be pulled back from the forehead. 
Hats had to be worn whenever the SPAR was outdoors, including riding in public vehicles, such as buses, or private vehicles, such as cars. Hats were preferred while in public restaurants.

.
Hair

The hair needed to be neatly arranged. The back of the hair could touch but not cover the collar. Hair ribbons and other ornaments were forbidden. 
.
Jewelry
No jewelry could be worn except for wristwatches, identification bracelets and inconspicuous rings. No flowers could be worn or carried by women in uniform. 
.
Tie
The removal of the tie was authorized within buildings where the individual performed official duty whenever the jacket was removed. 
.
Jacket & Coat
Whenever jackets and coats were worn, they had to be worn buttoned. 
.
Gloves
Gloves were worn outdoors but in excessively hot weather, it was permissible to carry the gloves in the purse or hand. 
.
Purse
The purse was carried with the strap over the right shoulder and across the chest (adjustable buckle to the front). This manner freed the arm for saluting and carrying orders and papers. 
The white handbag was strapless. Carrying the black handbag without strap was authorized only with the gray working uniform. 

SPARS wore the prescribed uniform at all times except when in the home with less than three guests or when engaged in exercise for which the Commanding Officer has prescribed no regulation uniform.

No part of the uniform could be worn with civilian clothing except articles which do not present a distinct Naval appearance such as the raincoat, shirt (without insignia), stockings, gloves, and shoes. 
 
 

(A special treatise about he use of cosmetics by service women during WWII
can be found here: Reenactor's Guide)
.
Conduct outside the Office

"Your conduct outside the office should be as military as possible. Whenever your wear the uniform of the services you are obligated to do credit to that uniform and never by word or action to draw criticism on the Navy or the Coast Guard. Consider it as your duty to learn and observe the customs and courtesies of the service.
 

*. Wear the correct uniform and wear it correctly.
* Have all buttons policed.
* Wear your hat correctly.
* Never chew gum in uniform.
* Never wear earrings or bracelets.
* Have your shoes shined and your stockings clean.
* Never remove the navy blue jacket in public or walk about with your jacket, overcoat, or raincoat unbuttoned.
* Do not hang on your escort's arm or behave affectionate in public."

"Smoking
Women should be careful to observe the social customs relative to smoking. At formal dinners or banquets the ranking officer indicates when cigarettes may be lighted. Navy personnel should not smoke on the street. This is particularly applicable to women."

"Drinking
Members of the Women's Reserve of the Naval Reserve and the Coast Guard Reserve are not forbidden to drink except while in training. However, when they do drink they are expected to do so with discretion."

(Source: Guide Right - A Handbook for SPARS and WAVES )

.
Care of the Uniform
.
"a. Necessity to Care of Uniform and Equipment 
The longest service of the various articles of the prescribed uniform can be obtained only by proper care and maintenance. The information given here is presented in order that the useful life of uniforms and equipment may be prolonged, and also that they may be worn with the justifiable pride which should distinguish a naval or military uniform. 
.
b. General Care 
No matter how well fitting a uniform, and especially the coat, is when new, it will not continue to look its best or keep its shape unless it is carefully put on and kept buttoned. The carrying of large and heavy objects in the pockets will speedily destroy the shape of the best coat. 
.
c. To fold a coat 
Spread it out, lining down, on a table and turn up the collar. Straighten out the sleeves and fold each side from the lapel notch, bringing lower corners to center seam. Fold the coat over once on center seam. If the container will not allow the coat to be packed at its full length, turn the sleeves up at the elbow before folding the coat. 
.
d. Moths 
Frequent brushing and exposure to sunshine and fresh air will effectually prevent moths. If uniforms are to be put away for a long time and left undisturbed, thoroughly clean and then pack away with camphor balls, naphthalene, cedar wood, or balls of cotton saturated with turpentine. 
.
e. To Remove Oil or Grease from Blue Uniforms
Soap a piece of blue cloth in chloroform, carbon tetrachloride, petroleum benzene, benzyl, or acetone, and rub the spot briskly. The stain will be washed out. The solvent will be rapidly evaporated. 
.
f. To Remove Kerosene 
Wash in a solution of warm soapy water
.
g. To Remove Paint Stains from Blue Uniforms
Paint stains, while still fresh, can be removed by use of the method given above for removing oil or grease. Old and hard paint stains are difficult to remove and oftentimes impossible. The best treatment for old paint stains is to rub them hard with a piece of blue cloth saturated in turpentine.
.
h. Paraffin, Wax, etc. 
Place blotting paper over the spot and apply a hot iron to the blotting paper. Continue this, using clean blotting paper, until the spot is removed. 
.
i. Iodine Stains 
Iodine stains can be readily removed by applying a solution of "hypo" (sometimes called "anticolor") used in photography, or sodium hyposulphite, and then rinsing thoroughly with water. It may also be removed by using starch as prepared for laundry purposes. Immerse the stained part in the starch and boil; the stain first turns blue then disappears. 
.
j. Chocolate 
Cover the stain with borax and wash with cold water, then pour boiling water on the stain and rub vigorously between the hands. When dry, sponge with naphtha, chloroform, or benzene.
.
k. To Remove Rust, Ink, or Fruit Stains from White Uniforms 
Soak the stained part in a solution of oxalic acid, or put some powdered oxalic or sodium or potassium acid oxalate on the stain previously moistened with water and rub with a piece of white cotton or linen. The stain will dissolve and can be washed out with water. Oxalic acid and its soluble salts are very poisonous, and care should be taken in handling them. 
.
l. Care of Gold Lace
Gold lace will rapidly tarnish and deteriorate if in contact with or hung near any substance containing sulphur, such as rubber or ordinary manila and Kraft wrapping paper. 
.
m. To Remove Tarnish from Gold Lace
Gold lace may be cleaned by dipping it in solution of potassium cyanide and rinsing it thoroughly with water. The use of potassium cyanide is very dangerous, as it is a powerful poison, and extreme care must be exercised. Never under any circumstance, use it if the hands have cuts or scratches. In any case, it is much safer to have an experienced tailor clean gold lace. 
.
n. Mildew
If stain is recent, simply use cold water. If it is an old stain, bleach. 
.
o. To Clean Buttons That Have Turned Green
Buttons sometimes turn green when the gold plating is worn off and the copper base becomes covered with green copper carbonate due to the exposure to moist air. This can be removed by rubbing gently with acetic acid or any substance containing this acid, such as vinegar or Worcestershire sauce, followed by a thorough washing in fresh water and drying. 
.
p. To Remove Shine from Serge Uniforms 
The spot to be treated should be steamed by laying a wet cloth over it pressing with a hot iron and then rubbing it very gently with a piece of "00" sandpaper or emery cloth. This should be done by a regular tailor. 
.
q. To Repair and Clean Cut in a Serge or Cloth Uniform
A clean cut in a serge or cloth uniform can be repaired by being rewoven with threads drawn from the material in another part of the garment. This must be done by an experienced tailor. This process is rather expensive but a cut so repaired cannot be detected after being rewoven. 
..
A light singe mark on a blue serge or cloth should be rubbed vigorously with the flat side of a silver coin. In many cases, this will make a great improvement in appearance. It is, however, not effective against bad singes or scorches. 

s. Cap Devices 
These and other embroidered insignia may be kept new and bright by scrubbing them occasionally with a nailbrush and ammonia which has been diluted with water. This should be done as soon as there are any signs of tarnishing or corrosion. If corrosion has been allowed to continue for a long period, the device cannot be restored to its original condition. 
.
t. Metal Cap Devices 
The gold part of this device may be cleaned by washing it with soap and water or by rubbing it with any kind of polishing cloth; the sterling silver part can be cleaned with any silver polish.
.
 (Edited from The Naval Officer's Guide by Arthur A. Ageton, 1943, p.207-208)
.
continue to:
.
Insignia
Medals and Ribbons
Service and Dress Uniform
Work Attire
Miscellaneous
Dress Regulations
.
.
[ I. Development ]   [ II. Facts about the SPARS ]   [ III. Uniforms ]   [ IV. Sources ]
.

.
 [Homepage]
..